Clive Petrovic

The BVI is about the sea. More than 60 islands, cays and offshore rocks comprise this archipelago. Just a few are inhabited, and the rest can only be reached by boat. It's little wonder that yachting has become so popular in these islands. The steady trade winds, warm, pleasant weather and friendly local population all contribute to the success of this area as the sailor's mecca.

Without a doubt, the best way to experience the BVI is by boat. Everything from small runabouts to large cruise ships sail these waters. Of course, the ones that attract the most attention are the sailing yachts, many can be rented from charter companies such as the Moorings, Sunsail and others.

While the itinerary of a yacht is flexible, many tend to visit the most popular spots during a weeklong cruise through the islands. A typical cruise itinerary might be something like this:

Day 1
The boat first heads towards Norman Island, the legendary Treasure Island of Robert Louis Stevenson. The wind is steady, the seas moderate and in two-and-a-half hours the boat sails into The Bight for the first night's anchorage. We stop at the floating restaurant, the Willy T, for lunch and to meet other sailors. After lunch, it is a short dinghy ride around the corner to the famous Caves and some snorkelling. These fascinating grottos are filled with corals, colourful reef fish and unusual marine animals.

By late afternoon, it's time to return to the sailboat for more swimming and a refreshing shower. Darkness arrives quickly, and the barbeque is lit on the back deck for the first dinner aboard.

Sleep time approaches too soon. Most retire to their bunks below, but a few stay on deck and gaze at the night sky, where the stars are twinkling from horizon to horizon.

Day 2
During breakfast, we sail to Peter Island. The crew votes for the longer "scenic" route to the next anchorage, around the outside of Norman and Peter Islands. Just off Carrot Rock, a pod of Bottlenose dolphins swim in the bow wake. After a few minutes, the dolphins tire of the slow boat and suddenly dart off as quickly as they arrived.

Under full sail, the boat passes between Dead Chest and the tip of Peter Island and enters Deadman's Bay. Naturally the first activity after anchoring is a swim and snorkel. Stingrays glide effortlessly over the sand bottom, totally oblivious to the swimmers above.

After the cooling swim, we dinghy ashore to explore the Peter Island Resort. Lunch is at the small restaurant on the beach. There is time to relax or go on a hike before swimming back to the boat.

Once again, sunset cocktails on the deck are a pleasure, followed by a quick change of clothes and a dinghy ashore for a sumptuous dinner at the elegant Peter Island Hotel.

Day 3
After breakfast, the yacht sails off to the next destination, Cooper Island. The sail was fast, and it's only 10 a.m. as the yacht enters Manchioneel Bay for the overnight stop. The next order of business is a snorkel around the boat.

In the afternoon, the entire crew pile into the dinghy for the ride to Salt Island. The salt pond behind the beach was harvested for centuries, and sea salt was exported from the island.

A dinghy ride around the corner takes us to explore the wreck of the RMS Rhone. This 300-foot steamship sank in a hurricane in 1867. While much of the wreck rests in 80 feet of water, the rudder and propeller are less than 15 feet deep. The Rhone was the setting for the movie The Deep.

At dusk, we go ashore to the Cooper Island Beach Club just in time to see the sun set over the distant islands. A delicious dinner at the informal restaurant is followed by a walk on the beach.

Day 4
Following a relaxed breakfast, the yacht leaves for Virgin Gorda and the Baths. There are enormous granite boulders, some as tall as a three-story houses along the way, which are tumbled one on top of another forming caves, ledges and grottos.

After lunch at the Bath and Turtle, it's time to head out to North Sound and the Bitter End Yacht Club. We get a wonderful close-up view of the Dogs, a cluster of small islands that offer fantastic snorkelling and hidden beaches.

The yacht sails into North Sound, a very active place, in late afternoon. There are wind surfers, kayakers, kite boarders and numerous small sailboats. At the Bitter End, a variety of bars, restaurants and boutiques will keep the entire crew entertained. A few even venture to the Biras Creek resort nearby.

Dinner at the Bitter End not only includes good food but the opportunity to meet lots of sailors. The chance to swap tales, often long into the night, is a highlight of the cruise.

Day 5
After sailing for about three hours, the yacht anchors off the Anegada Reef Hotel. Anegada means "drowned land" and it is flat, very flat.

In Anegada, a flock of more than 100 flamingos is frequently seen feeding in the western salt ponds. There is fascinating indigenous wildlife, including the large rock iguana, one of the rarest animals on Earth.

A taxi takes us on an island tour and then to Loblolly beach. There is a small bar and restaurant just behind the beach, but the star attractions here are clearly the sea and the sand. The beaches must be seen to be believed.

As the sun slowly settles toward the western horizon, the crew gathers and reluctantly boards a taxi for the return ride to the hotel. Dinner is the famous lobster barbeque that can only be enjoyed on the beach in Anegada.

Day 6
The next destination is Jost Van Dyke. We anchor off Sandy Cay, a truly spectacular uninhabited island. After a short hike on the nature trails, the yacht moves to the dock at Foxy's Taboo restaurant. A delightful lunch is followed by a short walk to the bubbly pool.

In mid-afternoon, the yacht motors the short distance to Great Harbour. The entire beach is ringed with bars, restaurants and shops.

Late afternoon and it's time to sail to the final anchorage of the cruise, Soper's Hole. Everyone gets into the dinghy and heads for Pusser's. A few Pain Killers and a dinner ashore make for a memorable night.

Day 7
The final day begins with the sounds of the ever-present gulls. After breakfast, there's time for a last swim and a bit of shore side exploration and shopping.

A mid-morning departure ensures an enjoyable sail up the Sir Francis Drake channel and a few hours later, you'll arrive at the marina in Road Town. Sadly, the cruise has come to an end.

There's so much to see and experience in the BVI, and traveling by boat is one way to get the best out of a vacation. Yachting is truly the best way to see "Nature's Little Secrets" and to fully experience the BVI. a

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