Tortola Sightseeing

Tortola is the principal island of the British Virgin Islands, and the centre of commerce and government. More than 75 percent of the Territory's 20,000 inhabitants live here. Historically, the cultivation of cotton, then sugar cane was the primary economic activity. Thus, a plantation economy thrived until the early 1800's when slavery ended, sugar production plummeted and political forces changed the West Indies. Soon the great houses and distilleries fell into disrepair and the remaining inhabitants turned to small-scale agriculture and fishing to survive. The islands descended into poverty for a century and a half. It wasn't until the latter part of the 20th century that the economic fortunes of the BVI began to improve. Financial services and tourism became the agents of change. The results of these, both ancient and recent, are clearly visible on Tortola. Ruins of forts and embattlements are adjacent to modern multi-million dollar mansions.

On foot
The best place to start your tour of Tortola is in Road Town, the most populated area. A walking tour led by a competent guide is the ideal way to immerse yourself into BVI history. Michael Kent, PhD student, archaeologist and lecturer at the local community college is such a guide. He can weave the sights and sounds of Road Town into a fascinating story that makes you feel a part of historical events.

Many tours begin opposite the Road Town ferry dock where most visitors pass through immigration and customs and enter the Territory. Sir Olva Georges Plaza functions as the town square and is the site of many cultural events and political gatherings. However, most days the plaza is filled with visitors and locals sitting on the benches or around the central fountain involved in animated conversation. The plaza is surrounded by a few small shops and offices, the central police headquarters and the post office. The latter, once the seat of government, has had numerous transformations over the years and is a good place to begin a walk down Main Street. An interesting juxtaposition of the old and the new, Main Street offers a fascinating look back into history.

As you begin walking east past the Post Office, notice all the small shops selling souvenirs. Many are restored or modified stone buildings from a bygone era. On your left, the Virgin Islands Folk Museum lies just up a flight of stairs. Staffed by volunteers, the museum is open only periodically. When it is, be sure to check out the artefacts and information about the history of the islands dating back to the first Amerindian inhabitants. There are displays from the plantation era as well as items and pieces recovered from shipwrecks, including the RMS Rhone.

Further on, Pusser's Company Store and restaurant has become a Road Town landmark. Across the street, a small wooden building contains a gallery of photographs and paintings. The West-Indian-style structure was once a private dwelling just steps from the shore. You'll notice large posts buried in the ground and bolted to the house at the corners of the building. These were designed to secure the wooden house and prevent it from floating away during periods of high storm tides.

As you stroll through town, don't forget to stop at the shops for a souvenir of your visit. As you round the bend to the left, you'll pass Sunny Caribbee, a wonderful spice emporium offering a wide variety of spices, condiments and island artwork. Next door is the New England Culinary Institute bakery. Operated as a culinary training centre by the H. Lavity Stoutt Community College, the student interns create many mouth-watering treats. It's a nice place to stop for a snack and cup of coffee or cool drink.

Continuing on your walk, you'll pass many more gift and specialty shops. Further on, you'll see two old churches that figured prominently in local history: the Methodist Church and St. George's Anglican Church, both prime examples of culturally and historically significant architecture. Nearby, the imposing stone wall of the austere HM Prison looks like a set out of an old western movie. Its most famous occupant was Arthur Hodge, a wealthy plantation owner who was hanged for murdering one of his slaves.

If you continue, you'll pass numerous old wooden buildings built in the characteristic West-Indian architectural styles and painted in bright colours. A few of these are still private residences. When you reach the Sunday Morning Well, take a pause to read the plaque and reflect on the history of the site. It was here that the proclamation was read in 1834 that ended slavery in the BVI. Today it is a gathering place for locals who like to sit in the shade and discuss the day's events.

Further along the road, you'll reach the J.R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens. Maintained by the BVI National Parks Trust, the Gardens are an idyllic retreat from the hustle and bustle of Road Town. Although only a few acres in size, the Gardens exhibit a variety of tropical plants from around the world. There are also examples of very rare plants endemic to the BVI. A profusion of flowers makes this a wonderful backdrop for weddings and other events.

Before departing the Road Town area, be sure to stop at Crafts Alive. This colourful collection of small shops and booths offer authentic local crafts and items of interest, ranging from island T-shirts to pottery, straw hats and crocheted souvenirs.

By car
For an overall view of the island, you'll need to rent a car or hire a taxi. As you leave Road Town, start out by heading west on Waterfront Drive, where you'll pass the Old Government House, originally built to house the British governor of the Territory. Following a recent renovation, the house now serves as a historical museum. It's open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday and definitely worth a stop and the $3 admission charge.

Only half a mile past Old Government House, you'll drive by Road Reef Marina, home to a number of charter sailing yachts. A few small local fishing boats are usually tied to the mangroves near shore. The presence of gulls and frigate birds flying overhead is a sure sign some fisherman is on a boat cleaning his catch.

Continuing west, past Prospect Reef Resort, you'll see a small mangrove island on your left. Just beyond the trees are several dozen white PVC pipes sticking one or two feet out of the water. Many have a stem and leaves sticking out of the top. These are mangrove seedlings planted by the National Parks Trust as part of a reforestation project. The pipes protect the seedlings until they are well rooted and large and strong enough to survive the coastal seas. You'll notice many more of these clusters of pipes on your drive around Tortola. The purpose of the project is to expand and enlarge the remaining mangrove habitats to restore this vital coastal habitat. Whenever you see these pipes, look in the surrounding mangroves for Brown Pelicans, which dive head first into the water in pursuit of their prey.

Another mile-and-a-half will take you to Sea Cows Bay, one of the largest sheltered bays on the southern coast of Tortola. Just after the first set of speed bumps, look to your right for the stonewalls of an old plantation ruin. You'll see more of these on your drive around the island. Adjacent to the ruins is the horse race track. Horse racing is popular in the BVI, and huge crowds gather for racing events.

A mile beyond the racetrack is the Nanny Cay Resort and Marina. The largest marina and boatyard in the BVI, it's home to millions of dollars worth of gleaming yachts. A relaxing time can be had strolling along the docks or visiting the gift shops and restaurants. There is even a driving range nearby for those in need of a golf fix.

Continue west on the coastal highway for another mile and a quarter and you'll pass an extensive collection of ruins hidden in the brush to your right. This is popularly called "The Dungeon," but was actually a garrison for soldiers protecting Tortola in the 18th and 19th centuries. There are some massive stonewalls and creepy looking unlit rooms giving the site its name. Several large tanks that were once cisterns have now been stocked with red fish called tilapia.

The views along this section of the coast road are magnificent. You can look across Sir Francis Drake Channel and see Peter Island, Norman Island and the larger U.S. Virgin Island of St. John. Find a place to pull over and take a close look at the shore. In many places the rocks and boulders just offshore are covered by corals, sponges and marine life. Colourful tropical fish swim around and under the rocks. Sea fans can be seen waving in the currents. On a calm day, snorkelling at such sites can be most enjoyable. In addition, birds, especially gulls and terns, are common along this shoreline during much of the year. So be sure to take a little time and enjoy "Nature's Little Secrets".

A little farther on your drive, you'll pass the "industrialised" area known as Pockwood Pond. The electric power station, incinerator plant and concrete and asphalt companies all occupy this location. As you leave the bay and return to the coastal road, stop and look up at the rock cliffs. This spot is a delight for amateur rock hounds. The greenish stripes and patches visible on the cliff face are exposed veins of copper ore. Look on the ground beneath the cliffs for small pieces of ore that have fallen down the slope. The amateur geologist will find a variety of rocks here that tell a story about the earliest formation of the islands.

Drive west another couple of miles to Fort Recovery. This is one of several forts and ruins that have been restored and made available to visitors. Look for others at Fort Burt, The Sugar Mill Restaurant or the Josiah's Bay Plantation. All these locations represent attempts to preserve local history in an attractive setting that will entertain and educate. At some sites you can imagine yourself strolling on magnificent plantation gardens or manning a cannon to fend off attacking pirates. The views are all terrific.

At the western end of the coastal highway you'll find Soper's Hole Wharf and Marina. This is one of the many fine natural harbours in the BVI and is often used as a storm shelter by yachts. The West End ferry terminal offers connections to the U.S. Virgin Islands of St. Thomas and St. John, as well as to Jost Van Dyke. Beyond the ferry dock, the Jolly Roger Restaurant offers a great view of the harbour all in a pirate motif.

Across the bay, Soper's Hole is home to numerous shops and restaurants. The West Indian-style architecture and bright colours help make this a popular location. This is a great place to enjoy dining on the water's edge and mingling with the yachtie crowd.

Returning a short distance east on the coast road, you'll find the well-marked junction of the Zion Hill Road. This road will take you up and over Tortola to the northern shore. Welcome to Tortola's "wild side." The north-facing coast is exposed to the waves of the open Atlantic, where large winter swells produce big waves popular with surfers. Several annual surfing competitions attract experts from surrounding islands.

Immediately noticeable on the northern shore beach is a ramshackle collection of debris known as Bomba's Shack. Renowned for its full-moon parties, the Shack also attracts the surfer crowd. This location is a stark contrast to the very upscale Long Bay Resort and The Sugar Mill Hotel & Restaurant, both less than a mile away. The north coast road passes through the communities at Apple Bay and Carrot Bay. There are several small restaurants and bars offering good local cuisine and great sunset views. During the winter, waves often break over the sea wall and sea spray dampens the road so prepare for an occasional dousing. Two popular stops on this side are the North Shore Shell Museum and Mrs. Scatliff's Restaurant. Both will give you a taste of "island life."

As you continue driving east, you will zigzag up a steep hill and pass down the other side to Cane Garden Bay. This is probably the most famous bay and beach in the BVI and is very popular with visitors. Numerous restaurants and bars line the beach to serve the sunbathers. A must-see here is the Callwood Rum Distillery, as much a museum as it is a working rum factory. Here you can learn the process of sugar and rum production, view a collection of historical artefacts and, best of all, take home a liquid souvenir.

The next bay east is Brewers Bay, a real contrast to Cane Garden Bay. Largely undeveloped, Brewers Bay has a campground in the middle of the beach and a bar at each end. This is a popular weekend party spot with locals but otherwise quiet and serene.

Farther east, most of the bays are undeveloped and accessible only by a dirt track. Exceptions may be found at Josiah's Bay and Lambert Beach. Josiah's Bay contains a small beach bar that's popular with locals and visitors "in the know." The beach is beautiful, especially when winter waves pour into the bay. It's a favourite hang out of surfers, but use caution: dangerous rip tides and undertows are present during high winter surf conditions. Lambert Beach is a more upscale resort and restaurant perched on an equally spectacular beach.

Back on the ridge road, it's worth the drive from end to end for the stunning scenery. Every turn of the road serves up another breathtaking view. Shutterbugs often run out of film on this drive, and an impressive view can be found at the Skyworld Restaurant, where an observation tower and telescope offer a panorama of islands in all directions. A great way to enjoy the view is with a sunset cocktail, naturally followed by a sumptuous dinner.

Nature lovers will not want to miss the Sage Mountain National Park. At 1760 feet, Sage Mountain is the highest point in all the islands. The high elevations produce considerable rainfall, so the park is always green and lush. It also contributes to a rich diversity of plant and animal life. Here you'll find the island's only Tree Ferns and colourful Heliconias. You can walk for hours on the trails within the park enjoying tropical butterflies and birds.

Along the route from the airport to Road Town, the road passes through the communities of East End/Long Look. Along the water's edge, you'll find marinas and several restaurants. At Paraquita Bay, notice the H. Lavity Stoutt Community College. Adjacent to the College is the Centre for Applied Marine Studies. At the Marine Centre, visit the Mangrove Boardwalk and Interpretive Centre, a must-see for nature lovers. You can learn about mangrove wetlands through the posters, displays and live animals. Then you can take the boardwalk into the forest or rent a boat and explore the lagoon. The Maritime Museum in the Centre is also worth a visit.

As you return to Road Town, pay attention to a prominent set of ruins along the road. This is Kingstown, and the ruins are the remains of the first Anglican Church built for liberated Africans in the Americas. Originally constructed in 1840, the Church will be restored in the near future.

Tortola Beaches

Tortola has more than two dozen beaches. Some are tiny pockets of sand that are barely visible while others offer sweeping majestic vistas. In general, the north coasts of all islands contain the beaches. This is primarily due to the large waves characteristic of the winter season. The winter seas can move huge amounts of sand and totally change the appearance of a beach. The surfers especially love such conditions.

Since Tortola's best beaches are on the north side, let's look there first. The westernmost accessible beach on the north shore may be found at Smuggler's Cove. It is a lovely small cove that is away from the mainstream. Getting there requires some effort, as it is located beyond Long Bay at the end of a winding, bumpy dirt road. Rarely crowded, it was once home to a quaint little honour bar and "museum." It will be "discovered" before long so enjoy the solitude there while you still can.

Further east lies the majestic Long Bay. Certainly the longest beach on the island, it is home to a large upscale resort. There is a beach restaurant where you can find some refreshments after spending the morning beachcombing and swimming.

Continuing east are the shorelines of Apple Bay and Carrot Bay. Mostly rocky shores, there are some stretches of beach. Large winter waves make this area popular with surfers. Several annual competitions attract surfers from far and wide. Two beachside attractions along this coast could not be more different. The Sugar Mill Restaurant is world-renowned for its ambience and cuisine, while the Bomba Shack, infamous for its full moon parties, is a ramshackle collection of marine debris that you must experience to believe.

On the east, the road zigzags up a steep hill. Over the crest on the downward drive you'll catch the first glimpse of Cane Garden Bay. This may well be the most famous beach in the BVI; Jimmy Buffett has mentioned it in more than one song. Cane Garden has a beautiful gently sloping beach that is somewhat protected by an offshore reef. Thus, it is a popular overnight anchorage for sailing yachts. There are many bars and restaurants so the area boasts an active nightlife as well. After enjoying dinner at any of the local restaurants, you can dance on the beach to the sounds of a local band. Walking barefoot in the surf with a full moon overhead is an unforgettable experience.

The next beach heading east is Brewers Bay. This is a real contrast to Cane Garden. Generally quiet and subdued, Brewers Bay lacks the developments of other beach locations. At times there are large events attracting hundreds of partygoers. Mostly, it is a good place to snorkel and then relax and read a book. The laid back atmosphere is attractive to ecotourists trying to "escape" civilisation.

East of Brewers Bay are a number of smaller undeveloped bays. Several are protected bays fringing coral reefs and are not accessible by boat without good local knowledge. Most are accessible by dirt track that can often be managed only on foot. The hike down the slopes can be difficult but the rewards can be spectacular. This is recommended for the fit and adventurous only.

Near the eastern end of Tortola is Josiah's Bay. This gorgeous steep beach often has big surf. Beware of currents and undertows, as they can be treacherous. This beach is becoming increasingly popular with locals and those in the know. A small beach bar and restaurant is charming and rustic.

Lambert Bay is another classic northern beach. Big surf in the winter makes for exciting yet challenging conditions. A small resort occupies much of the area behind the beach. It is quiet, secluded and offers a laid back ambience.

Beef Island is immediately east of Tortola and is best known as the location of the airport. Two beaches there are worth a visit. Long Bay is aptly named. It's a long, sweeping, crescent-shaped beach that is totally natural. There are no bars, restaurant or shops — just gorgeous sand, lovely water and peace and quiet. Every once in awhile, there is a big party and the ambience changes. The beach at Trellis Bay is small but circles the entire bay. Best known as a safe anchorage for yachts, this bay offers a variety of shore side services. The Beef Island Guest House is a popular spot for individuals wanting to escape crowds and mingle with the yachties. Nearby the Cyber Café lets you check your e-mails while enjoying a delicious sandwich on home baked bread. Adjacent to the Café is Aragorn's Studio, where local artisans not only sell their creations but also let you see how it's done. Trellis Bay is an excellent place to learn boardsailing and there is a school there to teach you. In the middle of the bay is the Last Resort on Bellamy Cay. A famous landmark known for its cuisine and entertainment, it is well worth a visit.

The south coast of Tortola offers little in the way of beaches. The large beach at Brandywine Bay is man-made and is becoming increasingly popular. Near West End is a small beach at Fort Recovery Estates, a renovated historical landmark that now functions as a hotel.

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