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By Julian Putley
The British Virgin Islands are composed of some 60 islands, islets and cays — and this very composition allows for a diverse array of beaches, seashore and coastline. The BVI is unique in that its geology comprises mountainous volcanic islands, low sandy cays and a large coral island not unlike an atoll on the Pacific. The latitude of the archipelago, at a tropical 18 to 19 degrees, and a steady, cooling trade wind flow means that outdoor life is nearly always comfortable. When locals have a day off, they head to the beach; when visitors arrive from chilly climes, their dream is a deck chair on a sandy beach.
As with most Caribbean islands, the trade winds have a windward side and a leeward side; in other words, a windswept side and a sheltered side. This makes for more choices than a long stretch of coastline on a continental shore and means that islands are especially desirable for beach lovers and watersports enthusiasts. Windward beaches are perfect for beachcombing and shelling.
Kiteboarders and windsurfers often search for windward beaches; uninterrupted wind and waves for jumping are their goal. Alternatively, those wanting to rest under a palm tree seek protected sandy beaches, and many of these feature beach bars and island eateries. What could be more relaxing than soaking up the sun in a chair, with a piña colada in hand and toes in the sparkling turquoise water? Snorkellers, divers and picnickers are also attracted to sheltered coves, and anchored boats and yachts add to a quintessential Caribbean scene.
The BVI literally has hundreds of beaches, and they are all open to the public. Even the beaches at the edge of a multimillion-dollar private island or property are open to everyone, since private beaches do not exist in the BVI. The innumerable options keep everyone happy.
In an archipelago of numerous islands, the easiest way to access the beaches is by boat. Many visitors charter live-aboard yachts for their entire vacation, while land-based tourists have the option of renting a fast powerboat for the day, sailing to a local beauty spot or two on a "day sail" yacht or taking one of the many ferries to the outer islands. Alternatively, a family may content themselves with a rental vehicle and explore the beaches on their island. Most visitors, though, will eventually want to spread their wings and explore further.
Tortola
The BVI's premier island and home to the Territory's capital, Road Town, is blessed with a wide variety of beaches. From popular hot spots with bars and restaurants to quiet, deserted beaches, Tortola has it all.
Fun in the Sun Beaches. Cane Garden Bay is a beautiful, crescent-shaped beach lined with lofty palms. It sits at the base of steep green hills that once thrived with verdant sugarcane plants. A small rum distillery still operates and is situated just across the road at the western end of the beach. Described as the oldest distillery in the Caribbean, it makes an interesting visit — and the spiced rum they produce is especially worth sampling.
Today, Cane Garden Bay is a hive of activity, with cruise ship visitors being bused in and out all day long. The beach is lined with deck chairs, bars and restaurants are thronging with people, and Caribbean music fills the air. Watersports activities are plentiful: Powerboats can be rented, and Jet Skis are available, as are paddleboards. There are several interesting boutiques and gift shops, an ice cream shack sells its frozen delights, and a small but good supermarket provides an abundance of necessities and specialty items. Cane Garden Bay is a "happening place."
Heading west from Cane Garden Bay through the pretty coastal village of Carrot Bay, Tortola's premier surf spot comes into view. When the north swell is up, primarily in the winter months, this beach at Cappoon's Bay is popular with wave riders. On the beach just above the high-water mark stands Bomba's Shack, a unique watering hole constructed of flotsam and jetsam, driftwood, hurricane debris — you name it. It's a popular hangout for the younger crowd and becomes a swinging party venue at full moon. Bomba and his famous shack were the first to host a full-moon party, and the "tea at midnight" is legendary.
Just a little farther down the road is Apple Bay, where a more easygoing atmosphere is evident. Sebastian's is a good medium-priced restaurant and offers alfresco dining right at the water's edge. The beach is really an extension of Cappoon's Bay, but water depth is such that surfing waves don't exist here.
Continuing west and over a small knoll is Long Bay, a mile-long ribbon of sand with white and frothy breaking waves. Kids both young and old love this spot for boogie boarding and bodysurfing. The view from the approaching road is spectacular and is perhaps the BVI's signature vista. The beach is popular with walkers and joggers, and for those who just want to relax, the hotel provides beach loungers. Facilities here include a bar, restaurant and interesting gift shop.
Smuggler's Cove, as the name suggests, used to be Tortola's best-kept secret. Now this beautiful, palm-lined crescent of sand is often packed with sun worshippers. There's a small coral reef for snorkellers, and one or two vendors sell cold drinks and snacks just behind the beach.
The island's pre-eminent surfing beach is Josiah's Bay. Often the site for surfing competitions, this beach, on the island's northeast coast, features two beach bars and is popular with locals on weekends.
Trellis Bay is another "happening spot." More famous for its attractions, this beach is enjoyable for shopping, browsing, sunbathing, eating and drinking. Aragorn's famous art centre is here, and there are several bars and eateries lining the beach. This East End bay (actually on Beef Island and connected to Tortola by a bridge) is home to the Loose Mongoose. The popular beach bar provides lounge chairs and dining with toes in the sand. Trellis Bay is also the ferry terminus for many outer islands.
On the south side of the island a couple of miles west of Road Town is Nanny Cay, and the developers have incorporated a small sandy beach into the sheltered southern shore. The beach is adjacent to the island's popular pub, Peg Leg's Landing, and for those who like snorkelling, there's an interesting reef that runs along the coast and into Sea Cows Bay. On weekends there's usually a lively game of volleyball in progress.
Romantic Hideaways. Brewer's Bay is a dazzling strip of beach with lofty palms, not unlike Cane Garden Bay. The difference is that Brewer's Bay is undeveloped and pristine, with only a modest campground and small beach bar. It's perfect for nature lovers who require nothing more than a good book and a quiet dip. The ruins of a sugar mill at the eastern end of the beach are interesting.
Tortola's north shore has a string of beautiful beaches that only recently have become accessible. East from Brewer's Bay are three romantic hideaways: Trunk Bay, Cooten Bay and Lava Flow. All three are likely to be deserted; yours will be the only footprints in the sand. Access is from Ridge Road, but there are no signs. So just ask a local and be prepared for a steep descent and a climb back up after your visit (four-wheel drive recommended).
Jost Van Dyke
Jost Van Dyke, named for a Dutch pirate, is like a mini Tortola. It has its share of history, a variety of beaches and more than its share of beach bars (15 at last count — one for every 12 residents).
Perhaps one of the most popular beaches in all the British Virgin Islands is Jost Van Dyke's White Bay, so named because it rises sharply from the water's edge and thus is visible from afar. There's a coral reef with fair snorkelling, and the water just off the beach is crystal-clear turquoise over fine white sand. White Bay is easily accessible from St. Thomas and St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, and is popular with day-trippers. The renowned Soggy Dollar Bar is here, as is Ivan's Stress Free Bar. At the western end of the beach, you can rent brightly coloured ATVs (All-Terrain Vehicles) for an island tour, and in the same location, kids will be happily entertained for hours with a huge doughnut trampoline set on shallow water.
Great Harbour, just to the east of White Bay, has the island's administration complex, a small building with customs, immigration and police. A sand-covered road runs just behind the beach and is lined with restaurants and bars — the easternmost one being the famous Foxy's.
Jost's finest beaches are on the two small cays at the island's east end. Sandy Spit is an idyllic, one-palm-tree cay with a convenient coral reef for snorkelling. Sandy Cay is the classic tropical island: It's uninhabited, with waving palms on its leeward side and an interesting trail around its perimeter.
A small beach and "bubbly pool" on Jost's north side is a popular attraction. Unheard of 10 years ago, it is now on everyone's must-do list. A pretty trail beginning at Foxy's Taboo along the seashore and past a salt pond leads to the whirlpool-like natural pool. In north swell weather during the winter months, seawater is forced through a narrow fissure in the rocks and results in a frothy explosion, eliciting screams of delight from bathers.
Jost has regular ferry service from West End, Tortola.
Virgin Gorda
The BVI's most famous beaches are unquestionably The Baths, a breathtaking string of beaches along a stretch of coast at Virgin Gorda's southwestern end from Valley Trunk Bay to Devil's Bay. Huge house-size granite boulders are strewn haphazardly along this sandy stretch of coast, creating interesting trails marked by unusual natural sculptures. This "art" has been formed by centuries of erosion by rain, wind and sea, and the sun shining through gaps in the boulder formations creates glimmering and shimmering reflections on rock faces.
Savannah Bay is located north and east along Virgin Gorda's west coast. This beach has a wonderful coral reef with easy access right from the water's edge and is perfect for children and novice snorkellers. It's always quiet, and the view is spectacular. There are shade gazebos, making it perfect for a picnic.
The not-very-long Long Bay is at the northern end of this coastline and just east of Mountain Point. Here is another beautiful beach with great snorkelling, and you'll probably have it all to yourself. Access is by car to just beyond Nail Bay, followed by a short walk.
There are several luxurious resorts on Virgin Gorda with their own palm-lined beaches. At the Bitter End Yacht Club, beach service is provided whilst you soak up the sun on a lounge chair as you watch the antics of kiteboarders and windsurfers. Transient visitors and yachtsmen are welcome to enjoy the amenities. Rosewood Little Dix Bay has its own strip of golden sand right in front of the resort, and Biras Creek has a secluded beach at the end of a bicycle path. Leverick Bay, accessible by road from Spanish Town, has a small beach, pool and beach bar/restaurant, and is open to daytime visitors. Vixen Point on Prickly Pear Island has a fine white-sand beach and a small beach bar can quench the thirst of those who take advantage of volleyball on the sand.
Anegada
Anegada is unique in the archipelago of the BVI. It is a flat, coral island and rises only 28 feet above sea level. Thus it was named Anegada, the drowned island. The interior of the island is uninteresting scrub, but the beaches are spectacular. All along the north and northeast shore a fringing reef causes white, frothy breakers, and between them and the shore is crystal-clear water over fine white sand, dotted with clumps of coral — a giant natural aquarium. Three of the most desirable strips of powdery sand have facilities available. The Big Bamboo at Loblolly Bay is a beach bar and restaurant that's famous for fresh lobster and fish — as are most Anegada restaurants. It provides gazebos, hammocks, a gift shop and scuba diving facility. Small cottages will soon be available for rent. Flash o' Beauty is another small bar/restaurant nearby.
The Cow Wreck Beach Resort bar and restaurant is also situated in a pristine location. The odd name derives from a shipwreck that contained cow bones on their way to a glue factory. The restaurant is popular for its local dishes and fresh fish. From Anegada's western point running south and east is a two-mile stretch of sandy beach favoured by windsurfers and kiteboarders. The quaint Pomato Point restaurant is here, with a one-room museum of mostly shipwreck artefacts.
Outer Islands and Cays
Marina Cay. Marina Cay has received notoriety as the Robinson Crusoe-type island of Robb and Rodie White. They built a small house on the summit of the cay before World War II. Their story was made into a Hollywood film in the 1950s. It's one of the most picturesque islets in the world and has been featured on the front cover of countless guides and magazines. The sandy beach, adjacent to a popular restaurant, has shade gazebos and a sheltered swimming area. A small ferry runs from Beef Island's Trellis Bay.
Cooper Island. Manchioneel Bay is the location of the Cooper Island Beach Club. It has a pretty palm-lined beach with loungers provided by the club and available for transient visitors. There's a good snorkelling site at the end of the beach near Cistern Rock. Scuba diving is available, and there's a small gift shop. The restaurant and bar offer a panoramic view of Tortola's south coast, especially mesmerizing during sunset and after dark with the twinkling lights in the distance.
Peter Island. Dead Man's Bay at Peter Island's eastern end is the quintessential Caribbean beach. It's a sweeping arc of fine white sand with swaying palms providing shade. The view looks out onto the renowned Dead Chest Cay, made famous by Robert Louis Stevenson in Treasure Island. The Peter Island Resort provides beach loungers for transient guests on the eastern beach, and the excellent beach restaurant is open to all. A ferry provides regular service from Baugher's Bay, Tortola.
The many islands of the BVI offer a huge variety of beaches. While having fun, it's up to all of us to preserve our beaches and reefs. After all, we are now in the age of green! As ARK (Association of Reef Keepers) says, "Millenniums to Grow, Seconds to Destroy."
Party On! Beach Bars
Many of the BVI's beautiful beaches are endowed with fun beach bars and restaurants. An interesting guidebook, The Drinking Man's Guide to the BVI, describes nearly all of them.
Here's a peek at some of the best beach bars.
Myett's in Cane Garden Bay is right on the beach in a tropical garden atmosphere. Most evenings, there's entertainment at happy hour. The sunset view over the bay with Jost Van Dyke in the background is spectacular. Myett's Delight is their specialty drink — a piña colada with a difference.
The Soggy Dollar at White Bay on Jost Van Dyke is famous for its Painkiller. The bar created the recipe some 15 years ago, and it's now an island favourite. The name Soggy Dollar derives from all the boat people who would swim ashore with — you guessed it — soggy dollars. The Painkiller is made from two parts dark rum, two parts coconut cream (Coco Lopez), three parts pineapple juice and one part orange juice. Blend all ingredients and serve over ice, and top with a cherry and a sprinkle of nutmeg.
One Love, also in White Bay, looks like a fisherman's shack, with fishing floats, flotsam, jetsam and nets creating the ambience. Owner Seddy Callwood has a repertoire of magic tricks — you can watch him make your Bushwacker disappear! The specialty drink is the Bushwacker, which is made from one part amber rum, one part vodka, one part coconut cream, one part Baileys Irish Cream, one part Kahlúa and one part amaretto. Mix in a cocktail shaker, pour over ice and top with a cherry.
The Loose Mongoose is right on the beach at Trellis Bay and is popular with locals and visitors alike. The beach gazebo features a TV for watching sporting events. Horseshoes is a popular pastime here. To make its specialty drink, the No-See-Um, use two parts 151 amber rum, two parts coconut cream, half a cup of fruit punch and half a banana. Blend the ingredients with crushed ice and top with a cherry.
The Big Bamboo was Anegada's first real beach bar on the island's famous north shore. The location is spectacular. There are hammocks in the shade under the sea grape trees and gazebos on the beach. The specialty drink is the Big Banana Teaser, made from one part dark rum, one part Kahlúa and an assortment of fruit juices. Mix in a cocktail shaker and serve over ice.
Jumbies at Leverick Bay is named for the mocko jumbies (colourful stilt walkers) that perform on party nights. The beach bar is next to a small pool that's open to transient visitors. The specialty drink here is another Bushwacker, this one prepared with one part amber rum, one part Kahlúa, one part amaretto and one part Baileys Irish Cream. Mix in a cocktail shaker and finish with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
There are more than 50 beach bars in the BVI. Try them all to find your favourite!
Check out our sightseeing suggestions for British Virgin Islands,
island-by-island using the links above.
To get to the BVI's call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.
Book your stay direct and save - using our BVI hotel guide.
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The British Virgin Islands are composed of some 60 islands, islets and cays — and this very composition allows for a diverse array of beaches, seashore and coastline. The BVI is unique in that its geology comprises mountainous volcanic islands, low sandy cays and a large coral island not unlike an atoll on the Pacific. The latitude of the archipelago, at a tropical 18 to 19 degrees, and a steady, cooling trade wind flow means that outdoor life is nearly always comfortable. When locals have a day off, they head to the beach; when visitors arrive from chilly climes, their dream is a deck chair on a sandy beach. 
The BVI literally has hundreds of beaches, and they are all open to the public. Even the beaches at the edge of a multimillion-dollar private island or property are open to everyone, since private beaches do not exist in the BVI. The innumerable options keep everyone happy. 
The BVI's premier island and home to the Territory's capital, Road Town, is blessed with a wide variety of beaches. From popular hot spots with bars and restaurants to quiet, deserted beaches, Tortola has it all.
Just a little farther down the road is Apple Bay, where a more easygoing atmosphere is evident. Sebastian's is a good medium-priced restaurant and offers alfresco dining right at the water's edge. The beach is really an extension of Cappoon's Bay, but water depth is such that surfing waves don't exist here.
Trellis Bay is another "happening spot." More famous for its attractions, this beach is enjoyable for shopping, browsing, sunbathing, eating and drinking. Aragorn's famous art centre is here, and there are several bars and eateries lining the beach. This East End bay (actually on Beef Island and connected to Tortola by a bridge) is home to the Loose Mongoose. The popular beach bar provides lounge chairs and dining with toes in the sand. Trellis Bay is also the ferry terminus for many outer islands.
Perhaps one of the most popular beaches in all the British Virgin Islands is Jost Van Dyke's White Bay, so named because it rises sharply from the water's edge and thus is visible from afar. There's a coral reef with fair snorkelling, and the water just off the beach is crystal-clear turquoise over fine white sand. White Bay is easily accessible from St. Thomas and St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, and is popular with day-trippers. The renowned Soggy Dollar Bar is here, as is Ivan's Stress Free Bar. At the western end of the beach, you can rent brightly coloured ATVs (All-Terrain Vehicles) for an island tour, and in the same location, kids will be happily entertained for hours with a huge doughnut trampoline set on shallow water.
The BVI's most famous beaches are unquestionably The Baths, a breathtaking string of beaches along a stretch of coast at Virgin Gorda's southwestern end from Valley Trunk Bay to Devil's Bay. Huge house-size granite boulders are strewn haphazardly along this sandy stretch of coast, creating interesting trails marked by unusual natural sculptures. This "art" has been formed by centuries of erosion by rain, wind and sea, and the sun shining through gaps in the boulder formations creates glimmering and shimmering reflections on rock faces.
The not-very-long Long Bay is at the northern end of this coastline and just east of Mountain Point. Here is another beautiful beach with great snorkelling, and you'll probably have it all to yourself. Access is by car to just beyond Nail Bay, followed by a short walk. 
Anegada is unique in the archipelago of the BVI. It is a flat, coral island and rises only 28 feet above sea level. Thus it was named Anegada, the drowned island. The interior of the island is uninteresting scrub, but the beaches are spectacular. All along the north and northeast shore a fringing reef causes white, frothy breakers, and between them and the shore is crystal-clear water over fine white sand, dotted with clumps of coral — a giant natural aquarium. Three of the most desirable strips of powdery sand have facilities available. The Big Bamboo at Loblolly Bay is a beach bar and restaurant that's famous for fresh lobster and fish — as are most Anegada restaurants. It provides gazebos, hammocks, a gift shop and scuba diving facility. Small cottages will soon be available for rent. Flash o' Beauty is another small bar/restaurant nearby.
Marina Cay. Marina Cay has received notoriety as the Robinson Crusoe-type island of Robb and Rodie White. They built a small house on the summit of the cay before World War II. Their story was made into a Hollywood film in the 1950s. It's one of the most picturesque islets in the world and has been featured on the front cover of countless guides and magazines. The sandy beach, adjacent to a popular restaurant, has shade gazebos and a sheltered swimming area. A small ferry runs from Beef Island's Trellis Bay.
Peter Island. Dead Man's Bay at Peter Island's eastern end is the quintessential Caribbean beach. It's a sweeping arc of fine white sand with swaying palms providing shade. The view looks out onto the renowned Dead Chest Cay, made famous by Robert Louis Stevenson in Treasure Island. The Peter Island Resort provides beach loungers for transient guests on the eastern beach, and the excellent beach restaurant is open to all. A ferry provides regular service from Baugher's Bay, Tortola.
Here's a peek at some of the best beach bars. 