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By Julian Putley
The British Virgin Islands are unique in many ways. The tropical archipelago of islands, islets and cays has long been recognised as the sailing mecca of the world. Perhaps not so obvious is the diverse array of cafés, eateries and fine restaurants, from those serving simply delicious dishes to others offering mouthwatering masterpieces. The BVI is an island nation, so seafood dishes are on most menus. If conch fritters or grilled lobster is your choice, head to a waterfront restaurant. If you desire something sophisticated like lobster thermidor or crabmeat agnolotti, then one of the many high-end eateries or resorts should satisfy your craving.
The BVI has a multicultural population — and this, coupled with the history of its people and the native fruit, plant and fish life, is responsible for the eclectic mix of dishes we find on island menus. Influences began as early as the local Amerindians, who gave us the method of cooking known as barbecue, still immensely popular in the BVI today.
After the "discovery" of the region by Christopher Columbus, unheard-of foods were introduced to Europeans. The list of raw materials is such that it's hard to imagine what the people from the Old World ate before the time of Columbus. Foods include squash, peppers, avocados, tomatoes, potatoes, various root vegetables, corn and cocoa. Seafood from the region comprises many varieties of fish, Caribbean lobster, whelk and conch, to name just some.
Africans, who arrived a short time later, introduced dishes such as salt fish, stews with dumplings, goat water, bullfoot soup, callaloo, fried fish and Johnny cakes. Later, Indians brought us their spicy creations, like the many and varied recipes for curry and the derivative roti. Also attributed to the Indian migrants are dahl, samosa and the popular Trinidadian snack known as "doubles."
Other ethnic groups, particularly the Chinese, have long been present in the Caribbean region, and others such as the French and Dutch, and various Arab nationalities, have added to the potpourri to make what we have today. Recently, professional European and American culinary experts have arrived to meet the demands of an ever more discerning and well-heeled clientele.
With such diverse ethnicities, many visitors will be rewarded by a visit to a local restaurant, bistro or hole-in-the-wall café. Many eateries feature the ever-popular roti, a curry of goat, chicken or beef wrapped in thin, unleavened bread and accompanied by chutney, kuchela or hot sauce. Another favourite is goat water. Now, don't be put off by the name; it is actually a rich and delicious stew, sometimes with dumplings, and seasoned with the tang of cloves and cumin.
In Road Town, Maria's by the Sea is well patronised with a good selection of appetizers, salads and pasta dishes. This popular hotel restaurant overlooks the harbour, and a large deck/lounge is ideal for enjoying pre-dinner cocktails. Popular with locals and visitors alike is the Virgin Queen, long famous for its award-winning pizzas. Its menu also includes an array of popular Caribbean dishes at reasonable prices. On offer are stewed mutton, lamb chops, fried fish, salt fish and several curries. Everything is available for takeout, and Wi-Fi Internet is available free for customers. Enjoy one of the famous smoothies whilst browsing the Web.
For a casual snack, quick lunch or tasty takeout there are two options "with a difference."
One is Nature's Way, and as the name suggests, they specialise in wholesome, healthy food. Nature's Way is the perfect option for those on a day excursion: Pick up a veggie pizza, plantain lasagna or perhaps a fresh and crispy salad. Accompany this with a delicious Caribbean smoothie like Papaya in Paradise, Strawberry Twist or Banana Blast. Have your healthy picnic packaged for travelling and enjoy! The Road Town Bakery is the other choice for either takeout or alfresco dining whilst watching the comings and goings on Main Street. The bakery specialises in hot Cuban or panini sandwiches, soups and salads, as well as a delicious selection of cakes and pastries. Cold drinks and hot coffee are also available, making this a popular early morning stop.
Opposite the ferry dock, a taste of Italy awaits. Capriccio di Mare is a café specialising in crostini, pizza, pasta and salads. Or perhaps a portion of tiramisu with a cup of espresso is more to your liking. This European café, in Road Town's busiest section, is popular with local business people, shoppers and visitors alike.
For great Italian cuisine, go no further than Spaghetti Junction. Now adjacent to Inner Harbour Marina with a view of the yachts, the extensive menu includes jambalaya pasta, penne pasta with smoked salmon, frutti di mare, lobster thermidor, rack of lamb and beef tenderloin with a macadamia cream sauce. Spaghetti Junction is an island tradition with an abundance of fine food and several wine awards. For fine dining in an intimate atmosphere, The Dove is your answer. Housed in a traditional West Indian cottage, the interior is divided into an elegant bar and a cosy sit-down eatery. An open-air seating area at the back under a mango tree is often alive with chatter from those having happy hour champagne cocktails, for which The Dove is famous. The menu, best described as Euro/Asian fusion, is typically small and allows for each dish to be perfectly prepared.
There are many wonderful restaurants away from "Town," and high on the list of five-star favourites is Brandywine Bay, just 10 minutes east of Road Town. For over 20 years, proprietor and Chef Davide Pugliese has been serving up inspired dishes with an Italian flair. Whilst sipping cocktails on the flagstone terrace overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel, diners are presented with the menu on a chalkboard in typical Italian style. Signature dishes include roast duck with mango chutney and calf's liver in Crème de Cassis (black currant liqueur). Homemade mozzarella accompanies many pasta dishes.
At the western end of Tortola on Frenchman's Cay is the new Watermark Restaurant, a gourmet eatery connected to the boutique hotel and villas. A very high standard of food is served here, with attention given to food and wine pairing. Ask the sommelier for his recommendation. Foie gras, grilled asparagus and crab cakes hollandaise are examples of the starters that will whet the appetite for halibut, rack of lamb or Black Angus rib eye, which are some of the choices that may follow. The operators of The Dove are in charge here, so you can expect great things.
As you travel along the north side road from west to east, you will come across a small inn and associated restaurant, the Bananakeet Café. A magnificent view to the west becomes an especially beautiful panorama at sunset. Tables surround the pool, and specialty hors d'oeuvres are served with complimentary "Sundowner Sips." Chef William "Spiceman" Mitchell, who hails from the spice island of Grenada, serves up delectable entrées of fresh fish, hot 'n crazy curry and the celebrated sautéed shrimp with a creamy coconut sauce.
Continuing east you come to Cane Garden Bay, Tortola's world-famous beach. An arching stretch of sand shaded by lofty palms is liberally sprinkled with eateries, cafés, beach bars and restaurants. Smack-dab in the middle is the acclaimed Myett's. Right at the water's edge in a garden setting, a more romantic ambience would be hard to find. In season, a lively happy hour with a local scratch band will get you in a Caribbean mood. Then you can continue your evening with grilled lobster, roast duck with tamarind sauce or fresh fish straight from the bay.
The BVI's sister islands are not without their share of inspiring eateries, and all can be reached by ferry from Tortola.
Virgin Gorda's North Sound has plenty of choices sprinkled around its perimeter, and one that should not be missed is The Restaurant at Leverick Bay. Situated in an idyllic setting, the restaurant overlooks the North Sound from a breezy wraparound verandah on the second floor of the main building. After climbing a beautifully tiled winding staircase, you will be met by a smiling maitre d' and a sumptuous menu at the top — a menu that includes fresh ahi tuna, lobster thermidor and filet mignon, to name but a few of the offerings. At the Olde Yard Village near Spanish Town, the Village Cafe & Restaurant should not be missed. At lunchtime, they serve salads, sandwiches and pizzas in a delightful setting by the pool. For dinner, the accent is on comfort and warm and friendly service. With a large plate of grilled Caribbean lobster, an ahi tuna steak or a rich rack of lamb, how can you go wrong?
In Anegada, all the seaside restaurants are locally owned and all feature lobster. The lobster, caught from nearby Horseshoe Reef, is said to be the sweetest in the Caribbean and is served fresh from the holding pen. Normally grilled and served with melted butter and a wedge of lime, it is sought by nearly every visitor. If a barbecued meal is on your wish list, beach restaurant Loose Mongoose in Trellis Bay will fit the bill. On Sunday evenings, the grill is fired up and slabs of steak, ribs, chicken and burgers are soon sizzling away.
On Jost Van Dyke, Foxy's famous barbecue buffet is available from Thursday through Saturday. Ribs, chicken and fish with their homemade sauces are on offer, accompanied by various salads and a large selection of fresh fruit.
There are many magical moments waiting to be savoured in the BVI, not least of which are those created by the islands' creative cooks and masterful chefs. Try a selection — you won't be disappointed.
Brandywine Bay Restaurant
Brandywine Estate, Tortola
Tel: 495-2301
Fax: 495-1203
E-mail: info@brandywinebay.com
Website: www.brandywinebay.com
Located three miles east of Road Town, Brandywine Bay Restaurant overlooks the Sir Francis Drake Channel. The cuisine of Chef Davide Pugliese blends the best of his Tuscan heritage with his passion for the flavours of the Caribbean. In addition, The Cicchetti Lounge on the terrace at Brandywine offers Venetian-style Tapas.
Capriccio di Mare
196 Waterfront Drive
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 494-5369
Fax: 495-1203
E-mail: info@brandywinebay.com
Website: www.brandywinebay.com/capriccio.htm
Located in the heart of Road Town's waterfront, Capriccio di Mare is a real Italian café. It's the place where locals and visitors meet any time of the day for espresso and cappuccino, pasta, pizza, Italian wines, cocktails and more. Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Fischer's Cove Beach Hotel
Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 495-5252
Fax: 495-5820
E-mail: fischers@candwbvi.net
Website: www.fischerscove.com
Fischer's Cove Beach Hotel is an intimate beachside property with romantic cottages, comfortable hotel rooms and fine dining at the water's edge. Located 10 minutes south of Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour in close proximity to The Baths.
The Heritage Inn
Windy Hill
Carrot Bay, Tortola
Tel: 494-5842; 877-831-7230
Fax: 495-4100
E-mail: info@heritageinnbvi.com
Website: www.heritageinnbvi.com
The higher you get... the better the view! Guests here will delight in an Inn-timate experience. Our nine suites boast the "Best BVI Sunsets," in addition to A/C, TV and private balconies. Enjoy poolside dining at the sensational Bananakeet Café. Windy Hill is located between Cane Garden and Carrot Bay. Peaceful, friendly, quiet and clean!
The Jolly Roger Inn
Heartbeat of the West End
Soper's Hole, Tortola
Tel: 495-4559
Fax: 495-4184
E-mail: louis@candwbvi.net
Website: www.jollyrogerbvi.com
This casual waterside Caribbean Restaurant/Inn offers creative Caribbean, Pan-Asian and innovative Italian cuisine. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, along with live music and award-winning barbecue on the weekends. Home to the West End Yacht Club.
Myett's Garden Inn & Grille
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola
Tel: 495-9649
Fax: 495-9579
E-mail: myettent@surfbvi.com
Website: www.myettent.com
Dine among tropical gardens on the beach, with spectacular sunsets served daily along with Happy Hour, lunch and dinner. Live entertainment most evenings. Unique gift shop, ATM, Internet services and charming air-conditioned hotel rooms available.
The Restaurant at Biras Creek
North Sound, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 494-3555
Fax: 494-3557
E-mail: biras@biras.com
Website: www.biras.com
Situated at the highest point of the property, the world-class Restaurant at Biras Creek provides spectacular sunset views over the North Sound and Atlantic Ocean whilst serving exquisite international cuisine. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations are required.
Spaghetti Junction
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 494-4880
E-mail: mail@spaghettijunction.net
Website: www.spaghettijunction.net
Spaghetti Junction is an Italian restaurant serving mouthwatering cuisine and fine wines — all with superlative hospitality and one-of-a-kind service that goes beyond plain pasta! The menu is a tantalizing fusion of traditional and modern provincial, and of course, Caribbean. The Jamaican spice-rubbed grouper with a rum-based special sauce (almost as legendary as the osso bucco) is beautifully concocted and presented by award-winning Executive Chef Pete Barrett.
The Village Cafe & Restaurant
Olde Yard Village, The Valley
Virgin Gorda
Tel: 495-5350
Fax: 495-6996
E-mail: villagecafevg@yahoo.com
A restaurant that offers an air-conditioned dining room and dining areas set around a beautiful pool and lush garden. The Village Cafe & Restaurant offers you the best in Caribbean cuisine with a French twist. We offer breakfast, lunch and dinner. This restaurant is perfect for wedding receptions, private parties, celebrations, family functions and business functions.
The Virgin Queen Restaurant & Pub
Flemming Street
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 494-2310
Fax: 494-4618
E-mail: compassrose@surfbvi.com
A casual meeting place in the heart of Road Town, The Virgin Queen Restaurant & Pub is renowned for its West Indian and Continental cuisine. Moderately priced with generous portions, all items are prepared fresh daily. Enjoy award-winning specialty pizzas using only hand-rolled dough and baked to your personal preference.
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