By Julian Putley

Fifty years ago the BVI was often described as a simple, sleepy backwater. Tourism was still just a speck on the horizon, and if you wanted to visit a restaurant of distinction, a trip "off island" was necessary. This is not the case today. The BVI is a tropical paradise of some 40 islands and cays, and the archipelago now boasts five-star gourmet restaurants offering mouthwatering delights and locally run eateries serving spicy and flavourful creations. The BVI provides an ideal palette for the culinary artist due to many different factors, including a diversity of tropical fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices; a mélange of cultural talent; and a marine environment providing a variety of fish, crustaceans and shellfish.

Tropical fruit like mangoes, pineapples, papayas, bananas, guavas, soursops and a wonderful variety of citrus are all delicious when ripe and freshly picked. Sometimes it only takes a sprinkling of cinnamon or nutmeg, a dash of rum and a scoop of freshly made vanilla ice cream to create a heavenly treat. Caribbean bartenders use local rum, fruits and purees often mixed with coconut cream to produce tropical cocktails that will have you coming back for more.

Caribbean kitchens also have a plethora of tropical vegetables from which to choose. Probably the most famous indigenous dish is callaloo soup. The recipe requires okra, coconut milk and dasheen leaves (similar to spinach), as well as hot peppers. Captain Bligh introduced the round breadfruit — more of a fruit than a vegetable — into the Caribbean from the islands of the Pacific in the 18th century. If boiled in coconut milk and pureed, it tastes something like mashed potatoes with cheese. It can also be sliced and deep-fried to make delicious chips. Other tropical delights include plantains, squash, avocados, aubergine, christophene and various hot and sweet peppers. There are also the aptly named "ground provisions," which are tubers with names like tannia, yams (sweet potatoes) and eddoes, each with a slightly different flavour.

As one would expect in an island nation, seafood is a specialty in many restaurants, whether they're classified as haute cuisine establishments or "down home" locales. The BVI is blessed with close proximity to the ocean drop-off, where pelagic fish are plentiful and the BVI's Horseshoe reef is home to the succulent Anegada lobster. There are at least 10 beachfront restaurants along Anegada's stunning, white-sand shoreline, which now cater to the ever-increasing demand for this crustacean sensation. The lobster is only pulled from its pen hours before serving, so it's absolutely fresh. It's grilled over an open barbeque and served sizzling and juicy with fresh lime and melted butter. Equally enticing is the variety of fresh fish, from swordfish, tuna and mahi-mahi to wahoo, snapper and grouper.

Many of the islands south of the BVI grow spices. Grenada, known as the "Spice Isle" of the Caribbean, is a major source. Local spice shops in the BVI import cloves, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, pepper, vanilla, ginger root and curry powder directly from these islands; these spices are used extensively in island recipes. There is a more pungent flavour to Caribbean cooking than the cuisine in colder climes, and it mirrors the character of island life. You may find a bar or restaurant serving jerk chicken wings, spicy conch fritters or salt fishcakes with a salsa dip as appetizers, and a spicy reggae or soca tune could be playing as background music.

It's the eclectic mix of people in Caribbean cultures that has added colour and richness to the dining experience. Afro-Caribbean peoples have retained many recipes from their ancestors. Goat water is a delicious stew made from goat meat, vegetables and spices. Bull foot soup and pig's trotters (a souse) may not sound very appetizing, but a skilful island chef can create a mouthwatering masterpiece. In both Trinidad and Tobago and Guyana, Caribbean people of East Indian descent make up a large part of the population. Their culinary cultural heritage brings curry powder, turmeric and cumin to the mix, along with wonderful unleavened breads and condiments like chutney, kuchela and tamarind jam. Over the decades, these influences have migrated north and are now a large part of the BVI's culinary experience. From the French islands, a mixture of African and French peoples has produced Creole cuisine, and the BVI now boasts several Asian and European restaurants to cater to an increasingly demanding visitor population. There can be little doubt that whatever your taste, the BVI's kitchens can satisfy your desires.

The BVI's two five-star hotels offer wonderful dining choices. The Little Dix Bay Hotel on Virgin Gorda has been highly rated for decades. The open-air Pavilion restaurant with Pacific Island tiki styling offers panoramic sea views and sumptuous buffets at both breakfast and lunch. À la carte dining at a very high standard is offered at dinner. On the beach, the Sugar Mill specializes in grilled meats and fish. Don't forget, the Caribbean invented the barbeque (the word has Amerindian roots), and cooking over an open fire is an island tradition.

Peter Island's luxury resort is situated on the private island of the same name. The palm-lined, white sand beach of Dead Man's Bay has the Beach Grill as its centrepiece. Popular for lunch, this beachfront eatery boasts a wood-fired brick oven for perfect pizzas, as well as hot homemade breads. The dessert table is almost irresistible, with offerings like Key lime pie, fruit tartlets and crème brûlée among others. The Tradewinds restaurant is a more formal affair, and its gourmet menu entices those from the ever-increasing mega yachts that tie up in the adjacent marina.

Tortola's Long Bay Beach Resort and Villas is fast becoming the choice of the discerning diner. Classified as a family friendly resort, the hotel commands spectacular views at the water's edge. It offers two restaurants to choose from: the Palm Terrace and the '1748' grill.

Fine restaurants are not only to be found in luxury hotels. Brandywine Bay with its fine Italian cuisine is an island tradition, and the Heritage Inn with its fantastic sunset views is often a first choice among locals and visitors alike. The Tamarind Club, with its signature Sunday brunch and famous swim-up pool, is another island favourite.

Virgin Gorda is home to many fine restaurants. More like an inn than a hotel, Biras Creek has been awarded the "Relais Chateau" accolade, which denotes a superior level of excellence. Near The Baths, the Rock Café is a popular restaurant specialising in Caribbean/Italian fusion. Nestled amongst the famous granite boulders, its location exudes a special charm. Fish and lobster are popular dishes, and you can choose from an assortment of pastas in cream and Caribbean sauces. The grouper in pesto sauce is a fine example of successful fusion and is one of the nightly specials. The Rock Café provides entertainment from the piano bar, and duelling pianists frequently perform an exciting duet.

The popular sister island of Jost Van Dyke is home to mega popular Foxy's. Now Foxy's Taboo has opened on the island's east end and has fast become a popular lunchtime venue, especially for those venturing to the Bubbly Pool, a Jacuzzi-like natural phenomenon in north swell weather. The restaurant specialises in salads, burgers, sandwiches and wraps, and the tropical cocktails are up to Foxy's original standards.

On Tortola's Cane Garden Bay, a plethora of beach bars and restaurants vie for attention. Quito's, at the bay's eastern end, has an upstairs veranda where patrons eat while enjoying a view of the yachts in the bay. Then later in the evening when the entertainment begins on the lower floor, diners have balcony seats. A few yards down the beach, Rhymer's hotel and bar/restaurant offers fantastic value with burgers, fish and chips and sandwiches. Myett's hotel and restaurant is further up the beach and offers fine dining in an open-air garden setting.

There are many excellent restaurants to choose from in the Road Town area. On the hill at Road Harbour's western side lies historic Fort Burt, and the hotel's restaurant is run by the H. Lavity Stoutt Community College. The food is European/Caribbean fusion, and both food and service are particularly good under the watchful eye of culinary instructors. On Sundays, there is a brunch with complimentary mimosas and live music. Each week a different theme is chosen ÿ perhaps French, Spanish or Italian, liberally spiced with West Indian panache. Dinner is enjoyed while watching the twinkling harbour lights from the terrace restaurant. If you happen to be shopping in town, stop by the Virgin Queen for one of their award-winning pizzas. Or perhaps a stop at Maria's, next to the administration building, would be more up your alley. Here you can relax with a tropical cocktail in the new gazebo, enjoy a great view and have a light lunch.

For a really different experience in a truly magnificent setting, the Secret Garden at Josiah's Bay is a must. The restaurant is situated in the courtyard of an old sugar mill, and the remnants of the still and crushing machinery are still evident. The open-air tropical restaurant features secret recipes by Suzanne, who recently ran the Harbour View.

Myett's Garden Restaurant

Cane Garden Bay is the islands' most beautiful and most popular beach. The white-sand beach is lined with palm trees, arching around in a perfect crescent. Perched right in the middle of this slice of paradise and only yards from the water's edge is Myett's. Over the years, Kareem and Valerie Rhymer have created a hotel, restaurant and bar in a perfect tropical setting whose ambience is second to none. Before dinner, enjoy live happy hour music at the bar. After dinner, patrons can enjoy a live band and dancing on most evenings.

The Myetts' success was not earned overnight. They recently celebrated their 15th anniversary with the opening of three new hotel rooms and a spa offering a full range of body treatments and facials. For the visiting yachtsmen, there are Internet and messaging services.

Quiet progress in keeping with the local surroundings is the byword at Myett's. Judging by the popularity of this beautiful garden inn, the prosperity is likely to continue.

Recipe courtesy of Myett's Chef, Radcliffe Stones
Tuna Tropicana

Ingredients
10 oz. yellowfin tuna steak, about an inch thick
2 oz. olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauce
1 oz. pineapple, diced
1 oz. mango, diced
1 oz. papaya, diced
1 orange, in segments
The juice of an orange
The juice of a lime
1/2 oz. red pepper, diced fine
1/2 oz. green pepper, diced fine
1/2 oz. red onion, diced fine
1 tsp. chopped cilantro
A pinch of Scotch bonnet pepper, chopped very fine
1 oz. olive oil
1 oz. apple cider vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation
Mix all the ingredients for the sauce together and simmer slowly for 7 minutes over medium heat. Set aside. Heat the olive oil until just smoking. Sear the seasoned tuna on each side for about 2 minutes or until medium rare. Slice the tuna steak to expose the pink interior and serve the sauce on the side.
This dish is excellent served with plantains, mashed potatoes and mixed grilled vegetables.

Brandywine Bay Restaurant
Brandywine Estate, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-2301
Fax: 284-495-1203
E-mail: info@brandywinebay.com
Website: www.brandywinebay.com
Located three miles east of Road Town, Brandywine Bay Restaurant overlooks the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Chef Davide Pugliese will introduce you to a palette of mouth-watering treats that blend the best of the Caribbean with his Tuscan heritage, all in an ambience of sophistication and elegance.

Capriccio di Mare
196 Waterfront Drive
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 284-494-5369
Fax: 284-495-1203
E-mail: info@brandywinebay.com
Website: www.brandywinebay.com/capriccio.html
Located in the heart of Road Town's waterfront, Capriccio di Mare is a real Italian café. It's the place where locals and visitors meet any time of the day for espresso and cappuccino, pasta, pizza, Italian wines, cocktails and more. Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Fischer's Cove Beach Hotel
Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 284-495-5252
Fax: 284-495-5820
E-mail: fischers@candwbvi.net
Website: www.fischerscove.com
Fischer's Cove Beach Hotel is an intimate beachside property with romantic cottages, comfortable hotel rooms and fine dining at the water's edge. Located 10 minutes south of Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour in close proximity to The Baths.

The Heritage Inn
Windy Hill
Carrot Bay, Tortola
Tel: 284-494-5842/1-877-831-7230
Fax: 284-495-4100
E-mail: info@heritageinnbvi.com
Website: www.heritageinnbvi.com
The higher you get...the better the view! Guests here will delight in an Inn-timate experience. Our nine suites boast the "Best BVI Sunsets," in addition to A/C, TV and private balconies. Enjoy poolside dining at the sensational Bananakeet Café. Windy Hill is located between Cane Garden and Carrot Bay. Peaceful, friendly, quiet and clean!

The Jolly Roger Inn
Heartbeat of the West End
Soper's Hole, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-4559
Fax: 284-495-4184
E-mail: louis@candwbvi.net
Website: www.jollyrogerbvi.com
This casual waterside Caribbean Restaurant/Inn offers creative Caribbean, Pan-Asian and innovative Italian cuisine. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, along with live music and award-winning barbecue on the weekends. Home to the West End Yacht Club.

The Mine Shaft Cafe
Coppermine Road
The Valley, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 284-495-5260
E-mail: mineshaftcafe@hotmail.com
Website: www.mineshaftbvi.com
Home of 360° ocean view panoramas and the world's greatest sunsets! Enjoy award-winning BBQ ribs, fresh local seafood and Anegada lobster specials, followed by a cool "Cave-In" house drink — if you dare — and a round of Mini Golf. Full Moon parties with live music.

Myett's Garden Inn & Grille
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-9649
Fax: 284-495-9579
E-mail: myettent@surfbvi.com
Website: www.myettent.com
Dine among tropical gardens on the beach, with spectacular sunsets served daily along with Happy Hour, lunch and dinner. Live entertainment most evenings. Unique gift shop, ATM, Internet services and charming air-conditioned hotel rooms available.

New England Culinary Institute
At H. Lavity Stoutt Community College
Fort Burt Restaurant
Tel: 284-494-2587
Road Town Bakery
Tel: 284-494-0222
The Cafeteria at HLSCC
Tel: 284-494-4994
Website: www.necibvi.com
Awaken your senses and educate your palate with extraordinary culinary delights at three locations: Fort Burt Restaurant in Road Town, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner daily with a picturesque panorama; Road Town Bakery on Main Street, offering a variety of fresh breads, cakes and pastries; and the College Cafeteria found on campus, enticing diners with its cultural and international favourites.

Oscar's Bar & Restaurant
Frenchman's Cay
West End, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-4844
E-mail: JustinAlbert@aol.com
Website: www.oscarsbvi.com
The island's newest restaurant and hot spot, Oscar's is a culinary adventure that blends fresh, sun-drenched island ingredients with rustic southern Mediterranean cuisine. Enjoy fresh fish and fabulous wines in a breezy beachfront setting. Oscar's at Frenchman's is both elegant and fun.

Palm Terrace Restaurant & Bar
Long Bay Beach Resort
Long Bay, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-4252
Fax: 284-495-4677
E-mail: reservations@longbay.com
Website: www.eliteislandresorts.com
Our candlelit signature restaurant, Palm Terrace, boasts an extensive wine cellar; selections from this cellar are elegantly paired with Caribbean and Continental cuisine. Our chef prepares a new dinner menu daily.

The Restaurant at Biras Creek
North Sound, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 284-494-3555
Fax: 284-494-3557
E-mail: biras@biras.com
Website: www.biras.com
Situated at the highest point of the property, the world-class Restaurant at Biras Creek provides spectacular sunset views over the North Sound and Atlantic Ocean while serving exquisite international cuisine. Dinner is served from 7 p.m.-9 p.m. Reservations are required.

Rock Café
South Valley, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 284-495-5482
Website: www.bvidining.com
Looking for something different? Try this absolutely unique natural setting with waterfalls cascading down our famous Virgin Gorda boulders! The place to go for the finest dining experience, best live entertainment and a friendly atmosphere.

'1748' Restaurant & Bar
Long Bay Beach Resort
Long Bay, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-4252
Fax: 284-495-4677
E-mail: reservations@longbay.com
Webmail: www.eliteislandresorts.com
Have breakfast, lunch or dinner at our informal 1748 beneath the seagrape trees by the beachfront or inside our 18th-century sugarmill accompanied by the sounds of the surf. Live music at our four weekly events: Sunday Brunch, Barbecue Cookout, Taste of Tortola Buffet and Caribbean Night Buffet.

The Tamarind Club
Josiah's Bay
East End, Tortola
Tel: 284-495-2477
E-mail: tamarind@tamarindclub.com
Website: www.tamarindclub.com
A tropical oasis, The Tamarind Club is a small quaint inn surrounded by lush gardens and Caribbean breezes located in the quiet valley of Josiah's Bay. The open-air restaurant features elegant dining with a Caribbean flair and live entertainment weekly. Drop by for breakfast, lunch, and dinner or Sunday brunch. Guests can use the pool and swim up to the bar for a refreshing cool drink.

The Virgin Queen Restaurant & Pub
Flemming Street
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 284-494-2310
Fax: 284-494-4618
E-mail: compassrose@surfbvi.com
A casual meeting place in the heart of Road Town, The Virgin Queen Restaurant & Pub is renowned for its West Indian and Continental cuisine. Moderately priced with generous portions, all items are prepared fresh daily. Enjoy award-winning specialty pizzas using only hand-rolled dough and baked to your personal preference.

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