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By Jane Bakewell
"Water, water, everywhere…" and plenty to play in. The pristine seas surrounding the beautiful cays, coral atolls and islands that make up the BVI are the most alluring attractions for visitors. Flanked on the north by the Atlantic Ocean and the south by the Caribbean Sea, the BVI offers a water horizon in every direction for those just content to gaze, as well as a gigantic aquatic playground for those with more exhilarating pursuits in mind.
In the 1970s, sailors venturing off the more familiar U.S. Virgin Islands discovered a fleet of islands off the Sir Francis Drake Channel that were the long-hidden mooring spots for the pirates of old who desired a safe harbour between their ocean pillages. Aqua blue waters on the lee side of mountainous islands made for ideal sailing conditions.
Sailing
Today's charter yacht operators offer that same spirit of adventure without the attending danger. Pirates are rare — unless of course you stumble across some merry-making revellers. And even for the novice sailor, the relatively calm waters and proximity of nearby islands makes for a delightful sailing excursion for the whole family.
The charter yacht industry in the territory has boomed over the past 30 years, and the BVI has truly earned the reputation as "The Sailing Capital of the World." The high season — generally from November through April — offers balmy sailing days and languid star-filled nights, which attract an international clientele anxious to escape colder climes.
These "floating hotels" come equipped with all the amenities. You can book a luxury crewed charter that caters to every whim, or venture out on a bareboat excursion and be your own captain and crew. Local provisioning stores make shopping a breeze, and some creative suppliers even have boats that will meet you at your anchorage spot with everything from ice to fresh-baked pastries. If you're not quite familiar with these waters, several charter companies offer a one-day check-out: A local captain will accompany you for the day, ensuring that you are comfortable with your sailing vessel and qualified to be out on your own. If you have a little more time to learn, there are plenty of sailing schools that offer various packages. There's even a women's sailing school for those females who feel they've spent enough time in the galley.
Aside from hosting the internationally renowned BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival, the BVI offers many other sailing competitions throughout the year that are open to visiting cruisers, whether you're sailing a mono hull or a large catamaran. The Royal BVI Yacht Club based in Road Town and the West End Yacht Club headquartered at the Jolly Roger Restaurant host most of these events. Whether you're here for a relaxing sail or a competitive race, these pristine waters are a sailor's dream.
Windsurfing
Wherever there is wide-open water and plenty of wind, you'll find thrill seekers who want to harness these winds for their own brand of water sports excitement. Windsurfers have almost ideal conditions in the BVI, and this sport draws many enthusiasts to the islands, along with the help of the annual HIHO (Hook In Hold On) Event. This weeklong windsurfing regatta of sorts draws participants from around the globe. These are island-to-island races, which include a flotilla of fans sailing right behind the participants and evening parties at every port of call.
This sport can seem pretty daunting to the bystander on the beach watching a windsurfer sail by, sometimes in excess of 40 mph. Windsurfing lessons abound on the island, however. Popular locations at Trellis Bay and Nanny Cay on Tortola boast a high success rate, having you up and "catching the wind" in only a few hours.
Kayaking
Ocean kayaks offer a more gentle approach to gliding over these pristine waters. Built as singles or doubles, these lightweight crafts are easily pushed into the water and are paddled by two-sided oars. Once the province of Eskimos in much colder waters, kayaking is a relatively easy sport to learn and allows one to explore coastal areas and mangroves off-limits to deep-keeled sailboats and powerboats.
Most BVI water sports operators encourage kayakers to stay close to shore and avoid the speedboats and larger yachts that might not spot a bobbing kayaker in rougher open seas. The coastlines of Tortola, Virgin Gorda and even Jost Van Dyke offer a wonderful day's exploration with a chance to get out, beach your kayak and take a swim or eat a picnic lunch.
Kiteboarding
Considered an "extreme sport," kiteboarding is not for the faint of heart or the weekend athlete and requires professional training. A combination of skills is necessary to manoeuvre a control bar that adjusts a kite attached to the body with a line and harness while one's feet are strapped to what looks like a small wake board. With proper ability and good winds, a proficient kiteboarder can get as high as 40 feet in acrobatic jumps before parachuting down.
The North Sound of Virgin Gorda provides an ideal area for learning this sport with a school operating out of the Bitter End Yacht Club. Lesson packages are available that can help an eager novice to learn this exhilarating sport.
Snorkelling
Year-round temperate waters, excellent visibility and vibrant coral gardens make floating just 10-20 feet over the BVI's extensive ocean aquarium one of the most popular water sports available. With a mask, snorkel and fins constituting the only gear requirements, snorkelling opens up this easily accessible water world to all ages and abilities.
Most hotels and charter yacht companies provide complimentary snorkel equipment for their guests. In addition, many water sports centres will rent it by the day or week, and the islands' many dive operators also sell top-quality gear. For those who want to snorkel right off the beach, two of Tortola's north shore beaches — Smuggler's Cove and Brewers Bay — offer protected snorkelling areas with a reef not far from shore.
However, the best snorkelling sites are generally accessed by boat, and many day charter operators offer trips to some of the most popular sites such as The Baths at Virgin Gorda and the Caves at Norman Island. The Baths are the BVI's true geological wonder, comprised of gigantic, volcano-formed boulders and shallow pools teeming with schools of blue tang, illusive flounders and spiny black sea urchins. The Caves are three shallow-water rock enclosures, with formations of orange cup coral on the walls and a fascinating reef that flanks the entrances with schools of sergeant majors, colourful parrotfish and eye-catching queen angelfish.
Other favourite locations include the three rock pinnacles known as The Indians close to Pelican Island, Sandy Spit just off Jost Van Dyke and Loblolly Bay on the north shore of Anegada. As in any foreign environment in which you are "the guest," appropriate etiquette is important. This is especially true with a living reef and vital to its survival. Corals should not be touched, and sea creatures should be left where they are. In shallow areas, it's best to avoid stirring up the sand with your fins, which could cover the corals and cut off their oxygen supply. A beautiful underwater landscape awaits exploration, and many snorkellers consider a peek at BVI's marine environment the highlight of their visit.
Fishing
The sport fishing business in the BVI is probably the fastest-growing sport in the tourism sector. High-profile companies sponsor deep-sea fishing tournaments, which are attracting international attention. Two of the most well-known fishing areas are the North Drop, a shelf that drops off to over 200 feet east of Virgin Gorda, and the South Drop off Norman Island.
Large sport fishing boats are equipped to take on even the strongest wahoo, tuna, king fish or blue marlin, in what is generally a catch-and-release operation. Boats can be chartered for either a full or half day excursion, and those not actively reeling in the big ones will have plenty of action to watch.
Fly-fishing, more commonly known in the BVI as bone fishing, is also increasing in popularity. Operators on Tortola and Anegada take fishermen out on the flats or shallows and allow them to cast from the bows of lightweight boats with poling platforms at the stern to navigate the waters. This is an artful sport that pits the fisherman's ability to lay the lure on the water in just the right way to attract the fish. Popular catches are jacks, tarpons, permits and the illusive bonefish, primarily found in the waters off Anegada. Fly fishermen can cast from shore and wade into the shallows as well, but it is best to have an experienced guide who knows the water and conditions and where and when to find the fish.
Surfing
Surfing is one of the fastest growing and popular sports in the British Virgin Islands. The region's topography of reefs, sand bars and point breaks, while hazardous as anchorages, provides some of the best surfing areas and breaks in the entire Caribbean.
Most of the surfing is concentrated along the Northern shores of Tortola, and there are some select spots around the chain. The two most popular beaches for surfing are located at Josiah's Bay and Apple or Capoons Bay. There are several other surf areas in the island chain that are not easily accessible from the shore and are only known well among the surfing crowd. Here you'll find an abundance of Lefts, Rights, Barrels, Tubes and The Green Room — all terms understood by Tortola's surfers — in an area that's fast becoming known for the Caribbean's best surfing.
Although not widely publicised as a surfing destination, visitors and locals have shared Tortola's waves for decades and there is a thriving local surf culture. Several local surfing contests are held during the season, which runs from October through April. People of all walks of life flock to the sport to share their passion for riding waves, and you may even find the staff at your resort, hotel or charter company are surfers too and will point you in the right direction to find a board and a great surfing spot. There are several places to rent surfboards on the island, as well as local surfing schools and surf shops.
Tortolans were never caught surprised by the mainstream surfing boom; to them, it just made perfect sense to grab a board, paddle out in warm turquoise-coloured waters and ride a wave to the sandy shore.
Learn to Scuba Dive
Those who have mastered snorkelling can decide if they want to advance to scuba diving by taking what is called a "resort dive." Most dive shops in the BVI offer them. You'll spend an hour or so learning the basics of breathing underwater and then a dive instructor will take you on a 30- to 45-minute dive that will go no deeper than 20-25 feet. If that experience leaves you hungering for more, then it's easy to sign up for a certification class that will allow you to scuba dive anywhere in the world. A basic certification class will take about five days and will involve classroom work, in addition to several open-water dives at depths up to 90 feet. The price can range from $350 to $500. Many people choose to take the classroom portion of the certification in their hometowns, and then come to the warm waters of the BVI to complete the open-water dives.
The certification card — C-card, as it's known — will allow you to sign up for trips to more than 100 dive sites in the BVI, including the aforementioned wreck of the Rhone, the site of filming for "The Deep," the Visibles — made famous by Jacques Cousteau — The Dogs and The Chimney.
Activities in the British Virgin Islands aren't just limited to watersports and lazing around the resort's swimming pool. Visitors will find that there's more than enough to keep them busy out of the water as well.
Bob Morris contributed to this story.
Find special sporting event dates in our Events section.
White Squall II
P.O. Box 145
Village Cay Marina
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 284-494-2564
Fax: 284-495-9753
E-mail: whitesquall2@surfbvi.com
Website: www.whitesquall2.com
Discover the islands the traditional way - under sail - aboard this beautifully restored 80-foot historic schooner. Day rates include a BBQ buffet, complimentary soft and alcoholic drinks, ample shade, snorkel equipment and a guide. Also available for private charter. Day sailing year-round since 1979.
Deep Sea Fishing With Speedy's
Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
Tel: 284-495-5235 / 284-495-5240
E-mail: speedysbvi@surfbvi.com
Website: www.speedysbvi.com
Choose from our custom-designed fishing boats; our 31 foot Bertram, Speedy's Advernture; or our 44-foot Southern Cross, Sppedy's Unbelievable, for the more serious adventurous and comfort-inclined fisherman. Both full and half-day charters are available.
Dolphin Discovery Tortola
Prospect Reef Resort
Tel: 284-494-7675
Fax: 284-494-7677
E-mail: tortola@dolphindiscovery.com
Website: www.dolphindiscovery.com
Make your dreams come true with this experience of a lifetime. The breathtaking and intimate discovery of swimming and playing with dolphins in the ocean is exhilarating. These amazing mammals exhibit unique behaviours, creating magical memories.
Jost Van Dyke Scuba
Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke
Tel: 284-495-0271
E-mail: info@jostvandykescuba.com
Website: www.jostvandykescuba.com
The only unexplored area of the BVI is now charted and open to recreational diving! We pick up and drop off on Tortola every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday from West End. Reservations required. Snorkellers welcome. Full service PADI Certified Dive Center with instruction from beginner to dive master.
Pristine Powerboats Ltd.
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 284-541-YAHT
E-mail: charters@pristinepowerboats.com
Website: www.pristinepowerboats.com
Pristine Powerboats prides itself in personalized charter solutions with a special focus on satisfying couples, families or small groups. Snorkel, fish, explore a secluded beach or lie on the deck, while enjoying the finest powerboats in the Islands. Just imagine - the time of your life.
Sea & Land Adventure Sports (BVI), Ltd.
White Bay, Jost Van Dyke
Tel: 284-499-2269 / 340-626-8995 (U.S. Cell) / 340-775-7292 (U.S. Office)
E-mail: notyoumaboy@surfbvi.com
Website: www.bviadventure.com
A full-service adventure sport company offering a variety of activities and equipment, from Honda 350cc ATV (All Terrain Vehicles) Ranchers to Sea Doo underwater scooters. Choose from a well-trained staff for windsurfing lessons, or ride one of their Trek mountain bikes. Whether you're 6 or 65, your fun-filled day awaits!
Show me a list of contact info for activities.
What would make your BVI vacation complete? Whether its boating, biking, hiking, team sports, horseback, surfing, snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, kayaking, kite boarding, sailing, fishing — get the 411 on who to contact right here.
Learn more about each island of the BVI and its beautiful pristine beaches, here.
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